GMT Card-Driven Game Pacific Typhoon Box EX/NM

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The game uses the same system that first appeared in the popular 1998 Avalon Hill card game Atlantic Storm. The game setting is the naval and air war in the Pacific theatre during World War II. Pacific Typhoon depicts the history of the air-naval battles of the Pacific War with 40 battle cards, each of which represents an historical naval or air battle such as Pearl Harbor, Midway, Surigao Strait, etc. Players compete by fighting a non-sequential series of twenty of these battles. A battle lasts for one round of play, so each player gets to play once per battle. The round-leader starts by picking one of two battle cards (he discards the unpicked one). The chosen battle card determines the year of battle. The battle card is also worth a certain number of victory points and resources to whoever wins it. The round-leader alternates after each battle, and the game ends after 20 battles (when the Battle Card deck is exhausted). Players are not assigned to sides. Instead, each player has a hand of force cards that typically includes both Allied and Japanese cards. The force cards represent warships, submarines, aircraft, special weapons, and events. Non-event cards have three separate combat values: Air, Surface, and Sub. For example, the battlecruiser Kirishima has combat values of 1 air, 4 surface and 0 sub; the submarine Flasher has combat values of 0 air, 1 surface and 3 sub; the Zero fighter (Sakai) has combat values of 3 air, 0 surface and 0 sub. Force cards are also worth victory points because they can be destroyed in battle. After the round-leader selects the battle card, he announces the "suit" of battle: Air, Surface, Sub or Combined. Only the combat values in the announced suit will affect the outcome of the battle. In a Combined battle, the combat values of all three suits are added together. The round-leader also announces the time of battle: Day or Night. Some force cards are only playable in a day battle (for example, the aircraft carrier Lexington), a few are only playable in a night battle, but most are playable in day or night battles. The round-leader then gets to play from his hand. He may play on one side or the other (but not both sides together). Each player after him in turn may then play on one side or the other. Pacific Typhoon is very much a social game. Table talk during the round can be very important toward your success. If you can't win the battle for yourself, you may at least gain some victory points from destroyed enemy forces by playing on the winning side. For this reason, you are always looking to the other players to provide assistance to the same side you play on, or to play on the opposite side of whoever appears to be winning the game. There is often an attitude of "I'll back you up now if you'll back me up later." Since a player can play on either side during a battle, everyone is a potential ally and a potential enemy. This recreates the uncertainty that was so prevalent during the real battles: Where are the enemy forces? Will reinforcements come to your aid? "Where Is Repeat Where Is Task Force 34 the World Wonders?" Are enemy submarines lurking ahead? Will you be the ambusher or the one who is ambushed? If the players all play on the same side, then the one who contributed the highest combat value in the declared suit wins the battle card as his spoil. If cards from both sides are involved in the battle, then the side with the greatest total combat value in the declared suit wins the battle, and the winning player who contributed the highest combat value on that side gets to divide the spoil cards. Spoil cards include the battle card and the enemy force cards that were involved in the battle. The winner keeps a spoil card for himself but must give a spoil card to each player who contributed to his side's win before he can keep a second spoil card from the battle, and so forth until all of the spoil cards are distributed. The allocation of spoils (the piratical aspect of the game) ultimately determines the game winner, because the player with the most victory points at the end wins. Spoil cards have different victory point values, and it is common for players to negotiate about the distribution of spoil cards before the battle outcome has even been decided. Can you tip the battle in favor of one side or the other? If you can, maybe you should use that power to leverage the best deal on spoils for yourself. Even if you lack good negotiation skills, you can win the game repeatedly through careful card management. The game includes battles in five different years, from 1941 to 1945. The battles are not fought in chronological order, so the first battle might occur in 1944, and the second one in 1942, etc. Each force card is playable beginning on a certain year and any year after that. For example, the destroyer escort England can be played in a 1944 battle or later. There are only four battle cards for 1941, but with the exception of Wake they are worth a high number of victory points and resources. (Resources you win allow you to increase your hand size.) However, only 25% of the force cards are playable in 1941. So a careful player might hold on to a 1941 card waiting for one of those battles to appear rather than use that card in a late-war battle. There are ten battle cards for 1942, and just over half of the force deck is playable then. By 1943, almost 70% of the force deck is playable, but the 1943 battles are relatively poor in terms of victory points and resources. The 1944 battles are more valuable, and 90% of the force cards are playable at that time. There are only seven battle cards for 1945, but they include some of the most valuable ones, and all force cards are playable then. At the start of the game, the Japanese have a slight combat advantage during the early years, and the Allies have a slight combat advantage during the late years. However, losses during battles can quickly erode those starting advantages. Careful card management means trying to have a hand of cards with good flexibility. Ideally, you want to be able to play on either side no matter what the year, suit or time of battle is. Careful card management also means closely observing the card plays and looking for victims and fate cards. Certain cards are fated to immediately destroy other force cards or to count as double-combat value in a battle, so if you see a victim in play and you have the fated card, play it during your turn to gain that spoil without sharing or negotiation. If you have a victim card in your hand, it is best if you can remember what card is fated against it. Then you can watch for that card or try to minimize the opportunities where it can be played against you. A typical game with four or five experienced players can be finished in 1 hour (a little longer for six players). As with any card game, there is luck involved with the draw of the cards (and an occasional die roll in this game). But victory most often goes to the player who knows the deck best. If you like Atlantic Storm, or if you want a social game with plenty of history that appeals equally to the casual gamer and the wargamer, then you should enjoy Pacific Typhoon. COMPONENTS: • 40 Battle cards • 110 Force cards • One Rulebook • 2 Six-sided dicePlease review the condition and any condition notes for the exact condition of this item. All pictures are stock photos. The condition of the item you will receive is EX/NM . Our grading system is listed below for your perusal. Grading System Grading System Payment Shipping About Returns Grading System Our Grading System To ensure a smooth transaction, please review our grading system below as well as the Shipping Information tab before bidding. Be sure to review the exact condition (and any condition notes / incompleteness notes located next to the title and description) before purchase. All pictures are stock photos unless otherwise specified. SW Shrink Wrapped. Still in the original factory shrink wrap, with any condition visible through shrink noted. For example, ?SW (NM)? means shrink wrapped in near-mint condition. MINT Perfect. Brand new. NM Near Mint. Like new with only the slightest wear, many times indistinguishable from a Mint item. Close to perfect, very collectible. Board & war games in this condition will show very little to no wear, and are considered to be "punched" unless the condition notes "unpunched." EX Excellent. Lightly used, but almost like new. May show very small spine creases or slight corner wear. Absolutely no tears and no marks, a collectible condition. VG Very Good. Used. May have medium-sized creases, corner dings, minor tears or scuff marks, small stains, etc. Complete and very useable. FAIR Very well used, but complete and useable. May have flaws such as tears, pen marks or highlighting, large creases, stains, marks, etc. POOR Extremely well used and has major flaws, which may be too numerous to mention. Item is complete unless noted. More Condition Details Miniatures come unpainted and unassembled, unless specifically noted. Assembly is required for most miniatures and model kits. Boxed Items are listed as "code/code" where the first code represents the box, and the second code describes the contents. When only one condition is listed, then the box and contents are in the same condition. If a book is listed in the same fashion, the first code represents the cover, and the second code the interior. For example a boxed game listed as VG / NM indicates that the outer box is in Very Good Condition, while the contents are in Near Mint Condition. A "+" (plus) sign indicates that an item is close to the next highest condition. Example, EX+ is an item between Excellent and Near Mint condition. A "-" (minus) sign indicates the opposite. Major defects and/or missing components are noted separately. Boardgame Counters are punched, unless noted. Due to the nature of loose counters, if a game is unplayable we will send you the parts or it may be returned for a refund of the purchase price. Dice In most cases, boxed games and box sets do not come with dice. Cardboard Backing of miniature packs is not graded. If excessively worn, they will be marked as "card worn." Flat Trays for SPI games and similar are not graded. If excessively worn, they will be marked as "tray worn." Payment Payment We accept the following forms of payment: PayPal Visa, Mastercard, Discover and American Express credit cards In Store Pickup with payment on-site by cash or credit card Sales Tax For shipments to Wisconsin addresses, we are required by State law to collect a 5.5% Sales Tax. Shipping Shipping Domestic Combine & Save Feel free to combine items to save on shipping costs! Make sure to view all the shipping options we have available to save even further. Maximum Shipping Cost No matter how much you order you will never be charged more than $19.95 for shipping in the continental USA! Flat Shipping & UPS Ground Please note that if you select flat $19.95 shipping or UPS Ground shipping, your order will actually come via FedEx Ground, a similar service that allows us to offer you lower shipping rates that eBay does not list. Priority, Express and 1st Class Mail ship via the USPS. Your order will likely arrive in 3-10 business days. If it takes longer, please contact us so we can check with the carrier to locate your package. If it cannot be located within a week after this we will reship the order at NO charge to you. Tracking is available on all orders, except for extremely light packages like single Magic cards. International Combine & Save Feel free to combine items to save on shipping costs! If you select USPS 1st Class your order may ship via Fedex FIMS where Fedex delivers the package to your local post office and your local post office delivers the package. This is a similar product that arrives in 7-21 days and allows us to offer you the lower shipping rate listed. USPS Priority and Express Mail packages will ship via the listed carriers but may also ship a faster method, at no extra charge. International Buyers Please Note: Import duties, taxes, and charges are not included in the item price or shipping cost. These charges are the buyer's responsibility. Please check with your country's customs office to determine what these additional costs will be prior to bidding or buying. Surface Shipping We also have some surface shipping options available. Feel free to contact us if the cheapest international shipping is over $35 as we may able to save you 20% or more by shipping surface, as long as you are ok with the extra wait. Tracking is available for Express/DHL, limited or no tracking may be available for Priority, and 1st Class/ISAL. Attention: Buyers from France, Germany & Austria: Customers in these countries may be blocked from purchasing some historical items. eBay is very strict on allowing any WWII related merchandise to be sold to your country and we have been required to block all these listings. Please contact us for suggestions if you are interested in blocked items, as we have cast a wide net to avoid policy violations and some may be acceptable. 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Price: 40 USD

Location: Madison, Wisconsin

End Time: 2024-11-13T06:42:13.000Z

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